Making It Happen – PDCC Stockholm Archipelago, Sweden August 2020 week 2

Sweden Week 2 - 129 nautical miles / 240 kilometers

Tim Gilby, David Walters, Cathy Jacobs, Peter Stewart, Sean Pople

Sean brought plenty of food and equipment with him, but unfortunately also a drop in air temperature to 20 degrees Celsius that would last for the next week.
Nevertheless the group repacked the kayaks and we were off late that same afternoon heading back eastwards. We headed to Tisteron once again up the Pirate’s Passage (enough to make his eyes water.)

Sunday 23 August Trasko Storra

One of the fascinating things about the archipelago is that despite numerous trips, there is always somewhere beautiful and new to discover and explore. This time we stumbled upon Trasko Storra, a nature reserve of stunning woodland, meadows (and a public sauna). It was a real slice of the traditional archipelago agricultural landscape and at the small jetty an old local fisherman pulled in and stopped overnight. 

Monday 24 August Granholmen

The next morning we set off to Granholmen, emerging into a sound with expansive views eastwards to the open Baltic. The tiny outer islands on the horizon looked like marshmallows hovering over the water. It was quite surreal; Cathy seemed quite mesmerised by it.
We had a lunchtime stop at Berg village on Moja and did a little sightseeing, including the historic church and less historic Co-Op.
Approaching Moja we thought that maybe Sean would have been happier with a sit on top kayak.

Tuesday 25 August Granholmen

Having decided to set camp for two nights gave us the opportunity to travel “light” for the day exploring the local nature reserve waters. Having been tipped off by Ruth in the previous week we discovered the gem of the trip, a small cabin for travellers, it was to die for. It was kitted out with bunks and chopping area within sight of the water. In fact it was so good we are not going to tell you where it is as we want to keep the secret all to ourselves. It was enough to make me want to become a lumberjack.
We are often treated to beautiful sunsets and panoramas in the archipelago, but that evening it was superlative. No more words needed: 

Wednesday 26 August Ladnaon

Next day we set off to revisit Ladnaon as we had the year before, camp amongst the cow pats, look at remnants of the Russian invasion of the early 1700’s and use the rowing boats that connect footpath routes between the islands.

“Rowing on a footpath” (Photo Cathy Jacobs)

Thursday 27 August Grinda

Grinda is always a welcome destination with a guest harbour, small store, farm and other amenities, so we decided to stay for two nights.

However en route we spotted an old windmill and climbed the hill to check it out. When we returned to our kayaks they looked like they had been used in a game of pick-up sticks as the wash from a passing ferry had tossed them about somewhat.

We also managed to sneak another visit in at Alsvik Post Office just to check the coffee and cinnamon bun situation, which proved to be fine. We also had the chance to chat to a French ex-airline pilot paddling a beautiful black and red foldable Feathercraft kayak.

“What’s chores? – Thank you, mine’s a pint”

Cathy and Sean pumping water from the well on Grinda

Friday 28 August Grinda

Today was a rest day. Some decided to circumnavigate the island in the morning.

In the afternoon the whole group decided to follow the island’s beautiful nature trail, well equipped with information boards covering both the wildlife and history of the island. Some of the viewpoints from the high ground gave us the opportunity to look across some of the sounds we had been paddling in the previous few days. They looked more of a challenge from 30 metres high rather than on the water when most horizons are a solid tree line continuity covering the islands.

That evening our camp was visited by a beautiful red fox, who having played a short game of peek-a-boo with Peter, grabbed one of his foodbags and ran off towards the trees. He dropped it soon afterwards, We can only assume that foxes are not keen on pesto sauce.

The evening gave another opportunity for a beautiful sunset as the clouds gathered, allowing Cathy to demonstrate her artistic photographic skills. 

Saturday 29 August Tisteron

Heading for Tisteron (sort of our base camp by now) we were reminded why we do not use the word “holiday” for these trips. Moments after going afloat the heavens opened, the visibility dropped and most of the colour was drained from the world to a deathly grey.

David “50 Shades of Grey” Walters

We were only on the water for a little over an hour before arriving at Tisteron but nonetheless we were thoroughly soaked. The heavy rain continued continuously for more than 18 hours so we hunkered down for the rest of the day and evening.

Cathy and Sean tough it out on Tisteron.

According to Cathy ships do pass in the night, lucky Cathy. (Photo – Cathy Jacobs)

Sean had booked a room with a view (Photo – Sean Pople.)

Sunday 30 August Home

Tisteron early morning

In the morning we rose to a beautiful clear sky. Who would ever want to leave this place? Not me, however we had an evening flight to Heathrow. So we squeezed in one more visit to Vaxholm and a sauna back at the canoe centre before heading to the airport later in the afternoon.

We were not looking forward to our 14 days quarantine when we arrived home, but it had been worth it. Ironically 10days into our quarantine the UK Government opened an unrestricted travel corridor to Sweden. If we had played our cards right we could have stayed on in Sweden and avoided quarantine altogether.

Nevertheless it had been a superlative trip with a superlative group of people. It probably won’t be the last.